Thursday, December 4, 2014

Parched. Burnt. Wild. in Little Dry

With the age of 33 approaching the next day, spending half the day in a new corner of the Gila Wilderness seemed like the best thing to do. Still dealing with the letdown of my performance at the Colossal/Vail 50 mile race, simply hiking instead of running felt like the correct method of contemplation. After getting a tip from a local photographer, I narrowed my focus in on West Baldy in the upper reaches of Little Dry Creek.
Arriving at twilight, my timing was perfect to begin the day without the use of a headlamp. Life in winter is generally a drag to me in the southwest. Fewer daylight hours, morning runs spent with additional mounting minutes of darkness each day, and little snow tend to get me a little down for a couple of months. What I'm discovering in my 2nd winter in Silver City however is that at the very least the quality of light is consistently excellent. The low southern sun and general clarity of sky makes getting up in the mountains more enjoyable to photograph. Add in wispy clouds, and there seems to be more to look at than in the peak of summer. Yin and yang and increased appreciation.

The hiking up to Windy Gap was fun with frequent hops across Little Dry Creek. The trail frequently clung steeply to the hillsides to climb behind cliffs that pinch the canyon tight. About a year ago I did this exact same hike, but the terrain above Windy Gap would be terra incognita.
Part of the beauty of spending time in the Gila Wilderness is that there is essentially zero up to date trail information online. Hell, there really aren't very many trip reports from the past decade at all, aside from the common trips up the forks of the Gila River and Whitewater Creek. Picking a trail like upper Little Dry Creek and looking at burn intensity maps from the Whitewater-Baldy Fire nearly ensures a little bit of doubt and adventure. This is exactly what I sought and found in spades. The trails were good enough, though would likely be deemed "poor" by anyone used to trails in more frequently used areas. Plenty of burnt trees presented themselves, but I was surprised to see some in tact evergreens and aspens as well. Nearing the ridge that led to West Baldy, I spooked a few massive bull elk that charged downhill, through catclaw, tangle, and all.
Although the route out to West Baldy is half of a mile without an official trail, I was happy to find pieces of a game trail to follow. This trail petered out in places, especially when intensely thick stands of catclaw were encountered.
Wind was beginning to pick up and I made the mistake of trying to hike the ridge wearing my beloved Patagonia Houdini wind jacket. Pretty quickly thorns started to poke into the jacket and potentially shred my Ultimate Direction SJ running vest. Every time I get out into the wilderness I think that I may need burlier fabrics, and the thorns encountered on this trip reinforced that opinion. A custom dyneema Sub-60 pack design may find it's way under the sewing machine in the near future as a result. All of the catclaw cursing was worth it, and the view from West Baldy is probably the best I've seen in the Gila yet. A fully bald summit, talus and all, at the end of a ridge with massive views into AZ to the west, Big Dry Canyon and the ridges of the Wilderness to the North, and Cooke's Peak peeking through to the East. Learning the lay of the land from this vantage is part of the reason for getting out. Finally seeing Rain Creek Mesa, Sacaton Creek, Sacaton Mtn, Big Dry, and the San Francisco River in the flesh instead of as topo lines was rewarding. The views of King and Queens Crown inspired the desire to create a route up Dog Canyon and follow the ridge to the top. Next time, always next time.
How many people make it up here? So so worth it.
After sitting and gawking for 30 minutes I began the dreaded trip back along the ridge. Slightly more intelligent from experience, I decided to drop low off the ridge and contour along the slope to avoid the worst of the catclaw. It wasn't that much easier though due to the steep nature of the terrain and numerous blowdowns underfoot. At least I learned something on this trip, and that along with the big views made this all worthwhile.
Back on the trail again and descending quickly, I became disgusted with how brown and dead the whole drainage seemed. This hadn't bothered me so much on the way up, and instead I had been awed by how intense the burn damage was. Now I felt that the land was ugly and dead and found myself comparing it to the lush high country of Colorado. Moving to southern New Mexico has had it's shares of ups and downs, and I find myself often comparing it to Colorado. This is wildly unfair due to differences of latitude and ecology. While we prefer the flora of the Chihuahua desert, we want it to be greener. We prefer the solitude out here, but want less burn damage. Now I found myself afraid that I would never view the Gila the same again, and that I'd never really desire to come back. All of the beauty I'd felt before was gone, and now was replaced with disgust. Looking out down the canyon, I knew that the hillsides should be fairly green from pines and scattered with the white trunks of dormant aspen. Instead, only the brown dirt below could be seen. Gratefully, 4 miles later I was back at the bottom of Little Dry Creek and blessing the lush grass and remaining leaves.
Little Dry Creek is a special place, and walking slowly, quietly downstream enhanced that feeling. Just as phenomenal as Mineral Creek but tighter and more lush, the canyon begs to be returned to over and over and over again.

3 comments:

Unknown said...

Nice photos, Hearsay. Looks like a fun, wild ride into another corner of the Big Burn. Trip duration, I find, has a large effect on perceptions too, in terms of adapting to something like the sensory overload of the Whitewater-Baldy Fire. Right out of the starting block it's ugly, while the beauty lurks in hidden corners to be revealed in due time as the mind adjusts, accepts, slows down. Your trips are noteworthy for their self-mandated efficiency though. :) Know you're a busy guy and all. Still curious about the Holt-Apache - Golden Link connection. Wonder which trails saw maintenance this summer? Saw a tweet or two from the Glenwood RD with photos of maintenance within the burn (didn't appear to be the Crest Trail), but as usual with USFS et al, the devil is in trying to pin down the details.

Devon Fletcher said...

Very nice post and photos. I've only visited the far western Gila a handful of times since moving here( whitewater, south fork whitewater, rain creek, gilita) I had big plans for visiting Sacaton Creek, Mineral Creek, Big Dry and West Fork Mogollon , I guess I put them off a little too long. My stomping grounds- the Black Range- burned in the Silver Fire. I've visited a few canyons on the east side, and the burn damage has not been too bad, but the flooding of the tiny creeks has vastly altered the trails in some areas. I haven't had the heart to hike any of the high country,just driving on NM 152 though the views are still awe inspiring, is devastating. Last summer I went to the Sacramentos in the Lincoln, carefully avoiding the Bear Fire area( the other big fire of 2012) which torched the beautiful south fork Bonito Creek drainage.

Unknown said...

Hey Brett, sorry for the slow response. I actually responded months back, but maybe I failed to hit the "submit" key. Your perspective is appreciated, and I agree that more time in any area that we deem "ugly" will reveal the beauty that lingers within. I've not yet made it onto Holt-Apache-Golden Link yet, and naturally you will be the first to know when I do. There are too many other places that interest me around here, and time is limited as you mentioned. I'm planning to get out somewhere in the Gila for 3 days in Mid-March, maybe I'll try then? But then again, I'd like to see Mogollon Creek, climb the in the Diablos, and maybe finish past Jordan Hot Springs at the bottom of the Middle Fork tambien. Just not enough time now that I'm a weekend warrior with a bunch of other jazz. Same old sob story I know.

Devon: Mineral Creek is definitely worth a visit it you ever feel like driving to the West Side and wasn't hit so badly in the fires and flooding of years recent. I've only been as far as the Log Canyon junction so can't attest for upper reaches, but I'd assume conditions stay the same. The trail definitely started to deteriorate past Cooney due to years of sporadic flooding and disuse, but nothing catastrophic like Whitewater and it's tributaries saw.

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